Early detection of mosquito and tick-borne illnesses can also prevent long-term health issues. Some tick and mosquito-borne illnesses can lead to chronic health issues in pets if left untreated. Testing allows for early intervention to prevent these long-term health issues.
Testing pets annually or biannually for tick and mosquito-borne illnesses is not only vital for their health, but it also helps to keep us safe! Humans can contract Ehrlichia, Anaplasma, and Lyme, so testing pets helps to monitor the prevalence of these diseases in our area. This information can be used to implement regionally targeted prevention and control measures.
Testing for mosquito and tick-borne diseases in cats and dogs is done by taking a blood sample. Holistic Veterinary Options uses the 4DX Plus test which screens for Heartworm as well as three tick-borne diseases: Anaplasma, Ehrlichia, and Lyme. The test is inexpensive, and can be run inhouse in less than 30 minutes.
To completely understand the importance of testing, it can be helpful to learn more about the serious and often devastating consequences of these mosquito and tick-borne illnesses.
HEARTWORM
Heartworm disease is caused by a parasitic worm, Dirofilaria immitis. This parasite can cause lung disease, heart failure, and organ damage in dogs and cats. Heartworm presents differently in dogs and cats, but it can be fatal in both species.
Mature female heartworms in an infected animal produce babies called microfilaria. These immature heartworms live in the infected animal’s bloodstream until they are picked up by a feeding mosquito. Carrier mosquitoes deposit these larvae onto the surface of a pet's skin. These larvae work their way into the new host’s bloodstream and mature over a period of about six months. At this point, they can be detected on a blood test.
Once the larvae mature, they can cause damage in their host for many years. Animals can be asymptomatic or have subclinical symptoms for months or even years after infection. Treatment is more successful when the disease is caught early before significant damage to the host has occurred. This makes testing regularly all the more important.
While Heartworm is a serious disease, its prevalence is currently limited in Dane County with a 0.40% infection rate. It is likely that vigilant testing, preventatives, and our colder climate contribute to this low number.
Some of our clients choose to forgo preventative care for Heartworm disease due to their concerns of potential side effects. Unfortunately, there currently is not an effective, holistic Heartworm preventative on the market.
If you choose to not use a Heartworm preventative for your dog or cat, we strongly encourage biannual testing to ensure that we can catch and treat heartworm disease before it causes lasting damage.
ANAPLASMA
Anplasmosis is a tick-borne disease caused by the bacteria Anaplasma phagocytophilum. It is carried by deer ticks, which are endemic to Wisconsin. A positive result for Anaplasma on a 4Dx test indicates that the pet was exposed and has developed antibodies. Further blood testing would be necessary to confirm if there is an active infection.
While many dogs who test positive do not show symptoms and may not need treatment, Anaplamosis can cause lethargy, high fever, loss of appetite, dehydration and joint pain. Dogs and cats who contract Anaplamosis have a good prognosis with early detection and appropriate treatment. Anaplasmosis is very prevalent in Wisconsin with an infection rate of over 20% and rising. This makes it essential that we test your dog or cat at least annually for this common tick-borne illness.
EHRLICHIA
Ehrlichiosis is most commonly caused by the bacteria, Ehrlichia canis and is transmitted by deer ticks and lone star ticks, which have recently become endemic to Wisconsin and the greater Midwest. Ehrlichia is moderately prevalent in Wisconsin with a disease incidence of 1.40% in the state and 2.04% in Dane county.
Ehrlichia commonly remains subclinical, meaning the organism causes damage without showing obvious signs. Clinical Ehrlichia can present as a high fever, respiratory distress, weight loss, swollen limbs, bleeding or neurologic symptoms.
Similar to Anaplasma, a positive result for Ehrlichia means that additional testing is necessary to distinguish between an active infection and simple exposure. We also recommend urine testing to determine if the disease has caused any damage to the kidneys. A several week-long course of antibiotics is prescribed to treat active infections. Testing and early detection is important because the prognosis is improved if this illness is caught early.
LYME
Most people are familiar with Lyme disease, but many may not know how it presents in pets and why it is so important to screen for Lyme disease regularly.
Lyme is highly endemic to Wisconsin with an incidence rate of 11.88%. Lyme disease is caused by a bacterium, Borrelia burgdorferi, which is transmitted by deer ticks.
Like the other tick-borne diseases, the symptoms of Lyme disease are highly variable and often remain subclinical for many months after exposure. Lyme causes many of the same symptoms as Ehrlichia and Anaplasma including joint swelling, lameness, fatigue, loss of appetite, and kidney disease.
We recommend additional blood testing and a urinalysis if your dog or cat tests positive for Lyme to ensure that their internal organs are functioning well. A blood test called the Lyme Quant C6 is typically performed after a positive Lyme test to measure your dog or cat's level of antibodies. This can help us determine if an active infection is present which would indicate a need for treatment. After treatment, we would measure the antibodies again to ensure that they have dropped and there is no longer an active infection.
Testing your dog or cat for tick and mosquito-borne illnesses is a crucial part of your pet’s overall health and wellness care. Annual or biannual testing for tick and mosquito-borne illnesses is quick, inexpensive, and will give you peace of mind! Knowing that your dog or cat is free of these diseases can alleviate concerns and help you take appropriate precautions.
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Question: Dr. Michelle, how do I know if my horse’s teeth are getting enough attention?
Answer: “That’s a really great question! If you aren’t having a dental exam performed by your vet at least every year, the answer is ‘probably not’! Many horse owners are not aware of how important routine dental exams are for their horse’s overall health and wellness. Dental disease and abnormalities can and do affect nearly every part of your horse’s body and behavior. Zoetis Equine Health conducted a survey of 4500 horse owners in 2020. They discovered that 73% of the horse owners they surveyed had horses with signs of dental pain and 22% of the survey participants had not had a dental exam for their horses in more than one year.”
Question: Why is it so important to have routine dental exams for my horse?
Answer: “Your horse’s mouth is constantly changing as teeth erupt and wear. Without proper maintenance, oral abnormalities like sharp edges, abnormal tooth eruptions, or irregular tooth wear can lead to pain, problems with chewing and digesting feed, behavior issues, and more. If a horse’s teeth do not function well, it will be unable to eat properly and its overall health may be at risk."
Question: What signs should I be watching for between dental exams?
Answer: “That’s another great question! I believe that you know your horse better than anyone, and you will be the first one to recognize changes that could be a signal from your horse that something is not right with them. Here are some signs your horse may have dental issues:
- Loss of appetite or weight or a general loss of condition
- Difficulty or slowness in eating and a reluctance to drink cold water
- Holding its head to one side as if it is in pain
- Dropping grain or hay from its mouth
- Your horse may ‘quid’ – this is when a horse forms its food into a ball in its mouth, and then drops the food after it has been partially chewed.
- Signs of uncrushed, unchewed grain in your horse’s manure
- Excessive drooling
- Blood-tinged mucus in the mouth
- Bad breath
- Nasal discharge from one nostril
- Swelling of the face or jaw
- Evading the bit
- Head-shaking, lolling tongue, or opening its mouth when being ridden or driven with a bit
- Resistance to bridling
- Being withdrawn or avoiding social interaction with other horses and people
- Having an intense stare or aggressive behavior
- Poor performance, such as a decline in athletic ability”
Question: How often do you recommend I have my horse’s teeth examined?
Answer: “The American Association of Equine Practitioners (AAEP) strongly recommends annual oral and dental exams as part of your horse’s routine care. But depending on your horse’s age, level of performance, and overall condition, more frequent exams throughout the year may be needed. My best advice is to ask your equine vet what their best recommendation is for your horse. This is not necessarily a ‘one-size-fits-all’ situation!”
Question: Can you tell us a little more about what happens during a routine equine oral exam?
Answer: “A routine equine dental exam takes approximately 10 to 30 minutes and requires your horse to be sedated and the use of a full-mouth speculum for safety. Your vet will assess the internal and external structure of your horse’s teeth, palates, and gums. Depending on what your vet discovers, the dental exam may also involve taking x-rays and/or floating your horse’s teeth.”
Question: What is the cost of a routine dental exam?
Answer: “The cost varies from vet to vet. The Holistic Veterinary Options charge for routine dental exams and floats ranges from $250 to $350 plus the farm call fee and any additional diagnostic fees. We do offer a discount for people who have more than one horse! It’s been my personal experience that it’s much easier to invest in an exam that will allow us to treat and resolve any issues early on. Skimping on this very important aspect of your horse’s routine veterinary care can often have a very expensive and painful end result.”
Question: Is there anything else I can do to help preserve my horse’s dental health?
Answer: “I encourage people to spread out your horse’s feedings if possible. This tends to lower their stress level and keeps their guts moving. Grazing all day (a species-specific behavior for horses) also helps with proper chewing and tooth wear, and this helps preserve your horse’s dental health.”
Thank you so much for sharing all of this with us, Dr. Michelle!
To schedule a dental exam for your horse, please call the Holistic Veterinary Options office at 608-432-2522.
One of the most highly questioned vaccines is the rabies vaccine. While reports of rabies disease have decreased immensely over the years, it is still a threat. In 2020, there were 25 known cases of bats positive for rabies in Wisconsin alone according to the Wisconsin Department of Health Services. Having pets vaccinated nearly eliminates the chance that they will become actively infected with rabies and helps decrease disease exposure to humans. Active infections are a death sentence for animals and require severe medical intervention for humans.
As veterinarians, we understand owner concerns regarding vaccine reactions, and we are also restricted by laws. The rabies vaccination is required for all dogs by Wisconsin state statute 95.21(2)(a). Rabies vaccination is also recommended for cats by the AVMA and National Association of State and Public Health Veterinarians. Both cats and dogs are held to quarantine restrictions in the event that they are presumed to be exposed to rabies or if they bite someone. These restrictions are less if the animal is in compliance with vaccine laws and recommendations.
Since there is a standard for care that includes rabies vaccination, if a veterinarian is not voicing this to clients and encouraging them to have their pets vaccinated it puts them in a position where their license is on the line. Above this, there is the safety of the veterinary staff and comfort of pets to consider. While many pets are friendly and tolerant of veterinary care, there is always a risk that an animal might become reactive and bite a staff member. In this situation, a pet that is not current on their rabies vaccination will have to undergo more strict quarantine requirements, and the staff member may be treated as if the animal is contagious meaning more intensive medical care.
Since veterinarians are inclined to enforce rabies vaccine requirements, here are some ways that veterinarians can help minimize potential vaccine reactions in pets:
While there is a titer available for rabies, having a positive titer does not equate to immunity according to the state laws. Pets that are not current with the vaccination, even if they have a positive titer and a medical waiver for rabies, are subject to more strict quarantine restrictions. For a complete simplified version of Wisconsin state statues regarding rabies visit https://www.dhs.wisconsin.gov/rabies/algorithm/quarantinefactshandout.htm
]]>1. You need an appropriate grain or complete feed to feed the supplement/herb or medication in:
It has to be a food that the horse will willingly eat. It needs to be a food appropriate for them as well.
If you have done a nutritional consultation or a Hair Tissue Mineral Analysis with Dr. Weidenkopf, she will be recommending a grain or complete feed for the horse. If you are starting a new grain or supplement, feed it to the horse for several days before adding supplements. You will not be able to "hide" less palatable items in a food that the horse barely tolerates.
2. If introducing multiple new items:
Introduce one item at a time. Allow for several days to pass before adding a new addition.
3. To feed the powdered or granular herbs/supplements on grain or complete feed:
This method is not appropriate for pharmaceuticals as they need to be given at the full dose and on the appropriate schedule. For pharmaceutical medications, see other suggestions below.
Introduce the herbs/supplement slowly. Start by offering 1/4 dose or less and slowly work up to feeding the full dose.
For example, the Herbsmith herbal formula dose for the average size horse is 2 tablespoons. If the horse is picky, start with 1 teaspoon and work your way up to the full dose. If they start refusing to eat after an increase, back down to the dose they will eat. Please let me know what dose they are eating if it is not the full amount. I may decide that dose is appropriate. If feeding the maintenance dose of 2 tablespoons once a day, it can be fed as 1 tablespoon twice a day.
3. To feed tablets and capsules:
Most horses will eat the following capsules or tablets whole when placed in grain/ complete feed that the horse likes. Standard Process supplements, vitamin/minerals, Prascend and Equioxx. If they will not eat them this way, skip to suggestion number four.
4. To use a dosing syringe for powders or capsule contents or ground pills:
Mix the herb with water and a little applesauce or carrot puree. Pull it up into a large syringe. Place the end of the syringe into the horses mouth and push the plunger.
5. Tricks to disguise the flavor of herbs, supplements and medications in grain or complete feed:
-Mix the item into some fresh ground flax or coconut meal. Most horses find these foods pretty tasty. Flax meal is a good source of omega fatty acids. Coconut meal is a safe
source of fat calories. You will likely need 4 tablespoons of flax or coconut meal for 2 tablespoons of herb.
-Herbs: Herbsmith herbs can be purchased mixed with flax. It is not quite as economical as the herb without flax. Jing Tang Herbal makes a granular concentrated form of many of the herbs that I prescribe. They do cost more per dose than the non-concentrated formulas. The average horse dose is closer to a teaspoon rather than 2 tablespoons.
-It can be helpful to lightly spray the feed with water so that the powder sticks to the food.
-It can be helpful to lightly spray the feed with oil so that the powder sticks to the food. I recommend organic canola oil as the ratio of omega 3 to omega 6 is best. It is also low in phytoestrogens which horses can be sensitive to.
-Try disguising the item in one of the following flavors: fenugreek, banana, cherry, rosemary, cumin, carrot, peppermint and oregano. I listed these in order of preference for most horses. Do not use artificial flavorings. You can use essential oils labeled as appropriate for consumption or the actual food item or herb ground up.
6. If the horse is refusing to eat an item that they previously ate:
Stop feeding the item for week or two. Then try slowly introducing it again. If they still will not eat it it, let us know. Dr. Weidenkopf may have you stop the item, change the item out for something else or help you figure out how to get them to eat it.
7. If the horse is refusing the food/supplement mixture that they previously ate:
Feed just the grain/complete feed without and supplements for 1 week to see if they are still is willing to eat that food. If so, slowly add the items back in like you did in the beginning. If the horse is not willing to eat that food, we need to chose a new food for them.
Please feel free to contact the us if you are still having trouble or want to share new tricks for us to add to this list.
The primary dangers surrounding a raw diet are the same as with any raw food: there is the potential risk for bacterial infection. This means that you need to handle raw pet food the same way you would handle your own raw food. Raw food needs to be properly stored to prevent bacterial growth. When handling raw food you should wear gloves, use utensils, and wash your hands when done. Food dishes should also be cleaned frequently. Also, ensure that young children are not getting into raw pet foods.
Another highly discussed topic is the potential for fractured teeth and intestinal trauma from the bones in raw meat. Raw bones are safer for animal consumption versus cooked bones. Cooked bones are more likely to fracture into sharp shards and cause intestinal damage. While any bones can be a risk to chew for dogs, healthy teeth should be strong enough to avoid damage from raw bones. If you are still concerned, there are options to buy raw diets with the bone ground up to avoid whole bones that need to be chewed. The bones provide essential nutrients for a balanced diet and cannot simply be removed from the diet.
Having a balanced diet is essential. There is a belief that a raw diet is just any meat. As much as bone provides nutrients, so do different types of meat. Pets need a balance between muscle meat, organ meat, and bones. Dogs are not carnivores, whereas cats are, and also need vegetables to balance out their diet. Medical conditions should be taken into consideration as well. This is highly important from a holistic medicine stand point. Having a balanced diet plus slow transition between food types will help prevent any gastrointestinal upset.
One of the primary benefits of raw is that the nutrition is more readily absorbed and processed. While this may seem like one small thing, having good nutrient absorption helps all processes in the body. This can lead to increased joint health, improved immune system, and even healthier skin and coat. Allowing pets to chew bones can help keep their teeth clean as well. On top of this, if the diet is formulated in consideration with an animal’s medical condition it can help their health even further.
]]>I was already on an anti-glyphosate crusade. I knew it was a carcinogen and many of our conventional grains are contaminated with glyphosate. I learned a lot more…
Glyphosates -
1- are Carcinogens (cancer causing). Studies have linked it to an increased incidence of lymphoma and bladder cancer in dogs.
2- are Antibiotics. Thus, they have negative effects on normal flora and gut health.
3- prevent plant production of alkaloids. Alkaloids in plants provide the plant and the animal eating the plant with many medicinal benefits including: blood sugar regulation, anti-inflammatory and anti-cancer effects, neurodegenerative repair and analgesic effects.
4- are a leading cause of increased bacterial antibiotic resistance in humans and animals.
5- directly disrupt the integrity of the gut wall allowing large molecules to enter the bloodstream before digestion. This leads to immune system issues (like allergies and gluten sensitivity), neurologic and cognitive effects (like anxiety and brain fog), and liver and kidney damage.
6- cause of low birthweight and premature birth plus autism and “spectrum” disorders.
This is all backed up by research papers and those references are available.
How do people and animals get exposed to glyphosates?
Exposure comes from eating contaminated food and topically from skin exposure where the chemical has been sprayed.
What foods are contaminated?
Heavy contamination - oats, wheat, barley, rye and legumes (peas, beans, lentils) that are conventionally grown.
Moderate contamination - soybeans and corn that are conventionally grown.
The average dog and horse have higher glyphosate levels in their body than the average human:
Glyphosate exposure can be measured in the urine.
Compared to humans:
Dogs have 32x more glyphosate in their urine, horses have 29x more and cats have 16x more.
Why is this?
The animal industry allows 5x more glyphosate contamination in pet food than is allowed in human food.
Canine kibble has the highest glyphosate contamination compared to human, horse or cat foods.
A bowl of dog kibble has 400x more glyphosate than the equivalent meal of raw meat. Conventional meat has very little contamination. The contamination is coming from the grain, peas, etc.
1 handful of grain-based dog TREATS has more glyphosate than 1 year of raw meat meals.
Dogs, horses and cats also get exposure from contact. They spend a lot of time with their noses to the ground.
How to prevent glyphosate exposure -
If you are eating/feeding any of the grains/legumes listed above you should buy organic, if at all possible.
Dogs also get a lot of pesticide/herbicide exposure if they spend time on sprayed lawns. It is best to keep them off of golf courses that are heavily treated with chemicals. Not only can they absorb the toxins through their skin, but they also ingest it when they lick it off their fur and paws or pick up balls and toys thrown on the contaminated surfaces.
Test your water to check for glyphosate contamination.
How to test for glyphosate -
Testing is simple. You can contact me to get a test or purchase one directly from HRI Lab.
HRI Lab kits -
https://hrilabs.org/animalstudy/
]]>Ammonium Hydroxide - preservative that increases Ph of product
Artificial Coloring and Flavor Enhancers - adds to visible appeal and palatability
BHT - Butylated Hydroxtoluene - preservative to prevent oils from oxidizing/rancid
BHA - Butylated Hydroxanisole - preservative to stop oils from becoming rancid
Calcium Propionate - mold inhibitor for acidic Ph feed
Calcium and Magnesium Stearate - emulsifier, binder, thickener (not a Calcium or Magnesium supplement)
Hydrogenated Vegetable Oil - a stabilized fat that increases shelf life, adds texture
Lignin Sulfate - binder in pelleted feed, byproduct of wood processing
Nitrates/Nitrites - preservatives to increase shelf life and color
Propyl Gallate - preservative for fats to prevent oxidation and rancidity
Propylene Glycol - moisture retention
Propionic Acid - preservative to increase shelf life
Sodium Benzoate - preservative for foods with high acidic Ph
https://horsemoms.com/wp-content/uploads/Horse-Supplements-12-dangerous-ingredients-detailed.pdf
]]>All Rice (except Brown Rice or Rice Bran) - a high calorie filler that has limited nutrient value. Brown rice has the outer shell, oil and germ of the kernel intact. Rice bran is the fibrous outer shell of the kernel that is left over during processing to turn brown rice into white rice. Processing the kernel into white rice means it has lost it's valuable nutritional parts.
Animal Digest - adds palatability to pet food. Created from all animal parts excluding teeth, horns, hooves, feathers and hair. It is a concentrated slew of animal parts that are heat treated and concentrated to use as a flavoring for lower quality foods.
Artificial Colors and Flavor Enhancers - the key word “artificial” (synthetic chemicals). There are natural alternatives most chemicals. Coloring is for human appeal only and should be eliminated from your pet's diet when a natural color is not available. Flavoring is usually added to mask the taste of less appealing ingredients. High quality ingredients are very palatable to most pets.
BHT - Butylated Hydroxtoluene and BHA - Butylated Hydroxanisole are preservatives used to prevent oxidation and rancidity of oils found in food. They may be used together. There is a cancer link to these chemicals and Vitamin E is a natural alternative to eliminating rancidity.
Brewers Rice - a cheap filler composted of rejected or damaged rice kernel pieces, including mill floor sweepings. This product has been processed, so it has low nutritional value and comes from questionable sources. It should be avoided.
By-Product meals - generic protein source that reduces costs to manufacturer - cheap filler. Sometimes it is just listed as meat by-product meal, therefore, if you are trying to eliminate a protein source you will not be able to identify what is in this ingredient. It is very vague and has ever changing sources of protein. When it is species specific it will the low quality parts of that species forming the meal.
Carrageenan - is a component extracted from red seaweed that is used as a thickener, emulsifier and preservative. It has been found to cause stomach irritation with a link to cancer and insulin issues.
Cellulose - is the structural component of plants used as a thickener in pet food. It is in the form of a gum and it is chemically treated to achieve this consistency. Chemical treatment used as part ingredient processing usually leaves chemical residue in that ingredient which can be harmful when your pet is exposed to it on a daily basis.
Copper Sulfate - Copper supplement (Is this used in some small animal food)
Corn Syrup/corn - (sugar) adds palatability and can change the texture of food. These sugary ingredients are completely unnecessary in pet food and have the potential to cause obesity in pets. Pet obesity causes many other health issues and any ingredient that has zero value to your pet's health should be avoided.
Ethoxyquin - is a chemical antioxidant in pet food, but is also a pesticide and used to manufacture rubber. This should be a red flag if you find it in your pet's food. There is a cancer link with this chemical. There are natural preservatives that are used very successfully to preserve pet food such as tocopherols (vitamin E), citric acid (vitamin C), and rosemary extract. Natural preservatives should be your first choice when selecting a pet food.
Farm Raised Fish especially Salmon - because farm raised fish are exposed to contaminated water the fish can contain dioxins and PCBs which are linked to cancer.
Flour - is a binder ingredient. White flour has been substantially processed, so the nutritional value is low and it has no benefit to your pet.
Glutens - are used in pet food to bind the ingredients. They are a low quality protein extracted from grain and have been associated with allergies. They are usually found in low quality pet food and should be avoided.
Glycerine - is a preservative that inhibits mold and a sweetener that increases palatability. It is a byproduct of the soap and bio-fuel industries and the tracability of it's sources are sketchy. It can also contain other chemical contaminants.
MSG - Monosodium Glutamate - adds palatability to food. It is made by fermenting products such as sugar cane and corn. It is used in human food and there is controversy about its use. In pet food the question is "why do you need to increase palatability?"
Nitrates and Nitrites - are preservatives used in pet food and there is a cancer link to both of these chemicals.
Pea Protein - is a cheap protein source for manufacturers that has fueled the grain-free trend for pet food. There is a possible link to enlarged hearts in dogs due to feeding this protein source.
Propylene Glycol - moisture retention in food/feed
Rendered Fat/Animal Fat/Meat Meals - generic protein and fat source - cheap filler
Salt - adds palatability and adds no value in food or feed.
Sodium Hexamethaphosphate - sequestrant (fat preservative) thickener, emulsifier, texturizer, reducer of tooth tartar, softens food
Sorbitol - adds palatability, moisture retention, improves texture
Soy Products - high calorie, cheap protein source, allergen
STPP - Sodium Triphosphate - emulsifier, moisture retention
Sugar, Maltose, Molasses - adds palatability, but is not necessary in pet food and could cause obesity.
TBHQ - Tertiary Butylhydroquinone - preservative for fats and oils
Vegetable Oil - cheap fat source
Xylitol - adds palatability like sugar but is poisonous to dogs
Links to check out:
https://blog.homesalive.ca/bad-dog-food-ingredients-to-avoid
https://mysweetpuppy.net/dangerous-ingredients-pet-food/#Info_graphic
https://extension.colostate.edu/docs/pubs/livestk/01625.pdf
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Many cleaning agents that are wiped on, sprayed or otherwise applied to surfaces in your home are advertised to be safe. But safety testing tends to look at short term susceptibility and the health effects of long term exposure are not always known. The chemical components in cleaners have MSDS or Materials Safety Data Sheets that list the potential hazards for each particular chemical. Many have hazards to your health like respiratory, gastric and/or skin irritation and some have possible links to certain cancer. Once they are diluted into a cleaning agent the chemicals are deemed to be safe, but exposure over months and years or a person with particular sensitivities could see health issues even at a diluted level. Pets lick, clean, lay and walk on the floor surfaces where these cleaners are used. We walk on our floors and eat off of our counter surfaces too, plus we use these products to actually clean, which is another exposure source.
So what are healthier alternatives since cleaning is a necessity especially with pets? There are many natural cleaners available. Vinegar is a great general purpose cleaner that removes soap scum and lime build-up plus deodorizes. Baking soda can be used as a paste for cleaning and it also deodorizes. Lemon juice lightens stains and smells great.Thieves essential oil is another natural alternative with its wonderful clove smell. It has great cleaning and deodorizing properties. There are many websites that provide information on using natural alternatives when cleaning you home. I’ve included two links below, but you can explore all the options online and pick the best recipes for your home and family.
https://www.thespruce.com/homemade-and-natural-cleaning-products-1900456
Prior to leaving, have your pet’s vaccinations and flea and tick protection current. They need a collar with a current identification tag and a microchip is highly recommended. A microchip is the best way to ensure your pet’s safe return if they are found and taken to an animal control facility or veterinary clinic. Id tags on a collar can be lost, but the microchip stays with your pet. Many animal control facilities only hold strays for 72 hours before they can be adopted or euthanized. Have a current picture of your pet with you in case you become separated. Pack your pet’s regular food and bring water that your pet is accustomed to drinking. New food or water can cause gastric upset and you don’t want those problems while you are traveling.
Good planning will help ensure that your pet can tolerate long rides in your vehicle.Take them on a few weekend excursions to see how they travel in your vehicle. To keep them safe while riding they should be seat belted or in a crate. They should not be allowed to hang out of the window, which at the least could cause an eye injury, but if you are in an accident they become a projectile. They should not be in the open bed of a truck - loose, tethered or crated. There is no climate control, so they are not protected against the elements and the noise of loud vehicles passing by your pick-up can be very stressful. Loose pets could jump from your moving vehicle or fall out of your vehicle and be severely injured or killed. Do not put your pet crate on a cargo carrier or platform of any kind. Besides being very inhumane and scary, putting your pet in a crate on the back of a vehicle bumper puts them in extreme danger.
Use your itinerary to verify by phone or email that the places you plan to stay and if they allow pets. Viewing the information on their website is not good enough. Many places make policy changes and their websites are not updated in a timely manner. Make sure you know their rules (such as leaving a pet unattended in your room, any weight restrictions, extra costs, etc) and prepare for those expectations. Check the weather conditions in the areas you will be traveling during your trip dates. Leaving your pet in a car, so that you can sightsee, is not an option in most cases. The temperature in a car even on a 65 or 70 degree day can exceed 90 degrees quickly, so make arrangements ahead of time to board your pet at a local kennel or vet clinic for the day. Another option if you are traveling with several family members is to have a designated pet companion that will forgo the adventure and stay with your pet. Keep alert to other pets that may be in trouble when you are traveling too. Have access to local authorities for each city you visit and call if you think any other pets are suffering from being locked in a vehicle. It’s better to make a call then let a pet die and authorities should take appropriate action if reported.
Be courteous and walk your pet in designated pet areas if possible. Pick up after your pet. If you travel with your cat keep their litter box fresh and clean up any messes. Put the waste in the hotel or motel dumpster rather than the room’s waste basket or use flushable litter. Don’t expect building staff to clean up after your pet - that is your responsibility.
If you are traveling by air, talk to your airline ahead of time so you know that rules and understand what will happen to your pet every step of the way. You may want to discuss any air travel issues with your veterinarian so they can suggest ways to make your pet as comfortable. There are essential oils that can help with stress and can be a healthier choice than pharmaceuticals. If your pet is small enough to travel in the passenger compartment of the plane, work with your pet to acclimate them to sitting in a crate for at least the length of your flight. They need to have a positive association with the crate and it is your job as a pet parent to get them ready. It may take some time and effort but it will pay off for you and the other passengers if your pet is calm and quiet while in flight. Never put your pet in an overhead or any other compartment on the plane. If your pet is too large they will be transported in a cargo hold. Each airline has different accommodations for pets, so you need to ask questions for each airline you are traveling with concerning handling and accommodations in the cargo hold. You will want to know if the cargo hold is climate controlled and sound proofed and if pets are separated from the luggage hold. Make sure you have a very sturdy crate, that bolts together if it comes in two pieces (top and bottom) and has a door that can be padlocked. Crates that use plastic hinged clips are not sturdy enough to hold together if the crate is dropped during handling. You should also padlock the crate door so your pet can’t accidentally escape their crate. If the flight is delayed your pet maybe in the crate longer than planned so practice ahead of time to reduce their stress. Airports are busy, loud and have many new smells. Expect a new pet flier to be a little overwhelmed. If you live close to an airport take your pet there a couple of times and walk them through the terminal to get accustomed to the craziness. You can put a mat in your crate, but secure it with double sided tape so your pet isn’t sliding around. Also reduce their meal amount before the trip and give them with a stuffed Kong for in flight entertainment.
During your trip make sure the equipment you use is safe for your pet. You may need to exercise or walk you pet numerous times. Have a collar that they can not slip or back out of if they get spooked by something. Make sure your harness or collar is fitted correctly and double up if they are a flight risk. Practice recalls with your pet using high value treats, so they want to come when called. Walk in safe areas - not high traffic truck stops or along interstates. Pull off the main road and get away from the action to feed them or give them a bathroom break. Extension leashes are great for home but they can be dangerous too. Your pet can pull the handle out of your hand and the retraction of the handle can scare them causing them to run away. In high traffic areas your pet can bolt in front of a vehicle before you have time to react and retract the leash. Using a six foot leash for your pet is the safest option. Make sure the snap is secure and functioning properly and the leash is not worn or chewed on.
The other option is to leave your pet at home. You still have to make arrangements for a safe stay while you are away. Some boarding kennels book up fast during peak travel times so book ahead - even six to twelve months in advance if you have your dates set. If your pet is new to boarding send them for an overnight to allow them to get use to the facility. Get a cost estimate so you know all the costs of boarding. Find out what your boarding facility requires for vaccinations and get that information to them in advance to make check-in smoother. Your veterinary clinic can send that information to the kennel for you too. Pack your pet’s food just like they were traveling with you, so they have no food changes during their stay (some kennels offer food but your pet will do much better on a familiar diet). Make sure the facility is secure and ask them for a tour. Also ask them for their procedures for pet exercise and emergencies. If you are having a family member or friend take care of your pet make sure they are truly ok with doing it. Treat it like a business deal and offer to pay for their time. Work out the details in advance including a schedule of when the pet needs to be fed and walked, what can or can’t be done with your pet and if your pet will stay at your home or in their home. If your pet will be staying in a new environment take them for several visits to acclimate them. Is your pet a runner or escape artist? Make sure the home is secure and your pet will not access to exterior doors during their stay. That may mean setting up gates or confining your pet to a designated area of the home. You never want a phone call that your pet has escaped from the pet sitter when you are hundreds of miles away. If you can’t find a family member or friend that is safe enough for your pet and the cost of boarding is too high, then seriously consider scaling back your trip by one or two days and using the savings to cover your boarding expenses. It will be worth it for your pet’s safety and your piece of mind.
Taking precautions can make traveling with your four legged co-pilot a fun and exciting adventure. Safe and happy travels!
]]>Traveling with your horse within your state or from state to state may require your animal to have specific health documents. You may need a health certificate, coggins test and certain vaccinations depending on where you are traveling to. Your veterinarian is the best person to talk with about your pre-trip health needs.
Horses that have been trailered frequently may not seem stressed while attending an event. However, well seasoned show horses can develop health issues and trailering can exacerbate those issues. Horses new to trailering will be under a great deal of stress as they leave their familiar home setting. An example are young horses beginning their show career. They may be recently weaned, are in training for the event, could be eating different feed or drink different water at the event, they are missing their equine friends, are being exposed to organisms from strange horses and the trailer itself is an additional stressor. Except for weaning, these stress factors can be the same for any horse no matter their age. When you think about it - we are asking for a huge leap in faith for our untraveled horses to walk into a steel box on wheels and roll down the highway at 60 miles per hour.
How can you make the transition less traumatic? Planning is key. Take the time to make loading, unloading and trailering comfortable. Nothing can jack a horse up like nervous humans trying to force them into a trailer at the last minute, for that soon to start open horse show. Practice loading and unloading daily, feed them in the trailer or even put the trailer in a paddock with hay inside and the doors tied open for a few hours everyday. These simple steps can work wonders to create a pleasant experience inside the trailer.
Once they are good at loading and unloading you can start taking them out on the road. A well traveled horse friend can make the first few drives less eventful for your horse. As you lengthen your drive make plans to stop at a safe place - maybe another stable in the area (with their permission of course) to unload and let your horse or horses stand tied to the trailer with hay bags for an hour or two. This also gives you a great opportunity to see how your horse will act before you get to the actual event and you can work on any issues that may arise.
Stress can cause health issues including ulcers so you may want to negate potential problems by talking to your veterinarian and using a preventative treatment during travel. Another item that you may want to consider is the use of certain equipment while you are traveling. Although many people use rope halters for daily horse handling they are not a good idea to haul with. Just like the trailer ties that break under pressure, you should also use a breakaway halter to prevent your horse from becoming injured. A horse with a rope halter that is tangled around a fixed object in your trailer could potentially be disastrous. A breakaway halter has a poll strap that will snap with enough pressure and this is the best option to keep your horse safe in a panic situation. Rope halters should only be used when you are in direct contact with your horse such as training. Another piece of safety equipment for trailering is a head bumper. It is a good tool to provide protection from gashes on the head and poll area. Leg wraps protect the horses from stepping on each other when the dividers are not solid to the trailer floor or from scraps when stepping in or out of the trailer. Trailers should be well ventilated at all times. Horses need as much fresh air flowing through the trailer as possible. Even cold days require ventilation.
Another planning step is to make sure your vehicle and trailer are in good repair well ahead of any trip. Vehicles and trailers that sit over the winter can develop structural and mechanical problems such as rotting floorboards, rusted or pitted welds on the floor supports, lights that don’t work, brakes that are locked up, dry wheel bearings, weather checked tires and more. Take time well ahead of an event to go through your truck and trailer and get repairs done. If you develop vehicle issues try to pull off into a safe area before stopping rather then on the side of a busy road. Sitting on the side of the road with a breakdown is not where you want to be.
When hauling remember you have a living, breathing soul or souls in your trailer and you need to have your full attention on the road. Know where you are going in advance. Give yourself plenty of extra time. Include extra time for getting gas, horse checks, bathroom breaks, wrong turns, etc. You should be driving at safe speeds, watching your surroundings and not doing other things like calls, texts or gps. In advance of any stops or turns send a signal to your horses by pumping the brakes softly. This warns them of a change so they can rebalance themselves. Avoid fast stops and starts by slowing down when approaching controlled intersections and not tailgating. The extra horse and trailer weight lengthens the distance you need to stop your vehicle, so be aware. Driving carelessly puts everyone in danger and will leave your horse thinking twice about loading next time.
Another part of travel planning is your feed and water supply at the event. If you are at a large scale show or event, there may be hay available to buy. If you don’t have room to haul your own hay for the entire event, especially if it lasts over several days, you should bring as much as possible to mix with any new hay that you need to purchase. Fast dietary changes such as pasture grass/grass hay to alfalfa hay, along with the other changes we discussed above, can cause problems such as colic, ulcers or going off feed. It’s best to keep as many factors as possible the same. Even water in different areas will taste different to your horse, so bringing your own water is ideal. If you can’t bring enough water with you, talk to your vet about products that can help your horse drink better and keep them hydrated. Any new environment can cause stress. To reduce stress naturally there are essential oils that can potentially provide relief for both you and your horse. A holistic veterinarian can recommend the best oil blend to possibly reduce stress and it’s side effects.
Once your travel is finished give your horse and yourself a day or two to relax and get back into the home routine. The more you plan the better the experience will be for both of you. Safe and happy travels!
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Starting with the product identity, we should understand what the manufacturer is trying to tell us about the food we are buying. The Food and Drug Administration has rules concerning what must be in pet food based on the product identity or name, so let’s look at those rules first.
The label needs to state the species for which it is intended in the product name or on the label. The FDA rules for pet food product names and their corresponding ingredients are the following:
95% rule states that if a specific ingredient is named in the product identity or product name it must contain 95% of that ingredient (not counting water added for processing which is typical of all wet type foods). So “Beef Dog Food” must contain 95% beef and this should be the first product listed on the ingredient list. “Beef and Pork Dog Food” would contain 95% beef and pork but the bigger percentage would be beef.
25% rule or “dinner rule” would be an ingredient listed in the product identity and qualified with the word dinner. (other terms could be platter, entree, nuggets, formula, etc) This product would be required to contain at least 25% of that stated ingredient. So “Chicken Formula for Cats” must have 25% or more chicken, but that item may not be the first ingredient on the ingredient list. It is just the ingredient that the manufacturer wants to highlight.
3% or “with rule” allows the manufacturer to feature an ingredient in the product identity or name using the word “with” which requires the food to only contain 3% of that ingredient. So a product labeled “Cat Food with Chicken” only needs 3% chicken content. This is important to note since a product similarly labeled as “Chicken Cat Food” must contain 95% chicken. Words can be important when shopping for the best food.
Flavor rule has no set amount or percent that must be added to the food, it just must be detectable. “Beef Flavored Dog Food” may have beef in the ingredients, but most likely it would have only beef by-products or it may not have beef at all. Flavors are usually derived from “digests”, stocks or broth. Artificial flavors are only used to provide smoke and bacon flavors.
(www.fda.gov/AnimalVeterinary/ResourcesforYou)
Do these rules hold true for horse and livestock feed too? Not really. Equine feed will have basic information in the product identity or somewhere else on the label (front of bag) but they seem to be less regulated. You may find descriptions of the product like complete feed, supplement or balancer, pelleted or texturized or possibly the percent protein or fat content. The rest is up to you to discover by reading the guaranteed analysis and ingredient list. The ingredient list must be in order from greatest amount of ingredient to the least amount of ingredient by volume. That holds true for all ingredient lists. Another note if you dilute the effect of the food by not feeding per the instructions on the bag you should shop for a better fitting feed for you animal’s needs because you are not getting the nutrients as guaranteed on the label. This information can be found in more detail on the Federal Food and Drug Administration website.
There is another statement to make note of on the front label of your pet food or horse feed. Besides the product name or identity, there is a quantity statement. It will be in terms of net weight for a solid or net volume for a liquid. The importance of the net quantity is several fold. You can compare the cost of different products using the quantity statement. You can calculate how long the feed will last based on the the amount you plan to feed. You can figure out the cost per serving or per day which is important to your budget. This brings up another point that you need to consider when feeding your animals. Many people measure their food based on a measuring scoop or cup. It is important that you know the amount that you are feeding in weight or volume. Does that scoop of food weigh one pound or two pounds? If you are scooping out of a 15 ounce can, how much are you feeding each time? How much does a flake of hay weigh? Are the flakes always the same size? This can be important information to know whether you are talking to your vet or making your own ration adjustments. Knowing the weight of each feed component will help get your rations balanced for your pet's or horse's nutritional needs. It is not that you can’t use that measuring scoop. You just need to know the weight of the food that the scoop holds. You can get the weight for a scoop of feed or a serving of food using your scale or taking it to your feed store to have it weighed.
There is very important information on the back label of every wet or dry pet food container or horse feed bag. This information includes the guaranteed analysis, ingredient list, nutritional adequacy statement, feeding recommendations, cautions and the contact information identifying who is responsible for the product. The guaranteed analysis states the minimum level of crude protein and crude fat and the maximum level of crude fiber and moisture as a percentage in the product. The nutrients are labeled “crude” to indicate that not all of the nutrient is digestible. Equine labels will also have the maximum acid and neutral detergent fiber, the minimum and maximum calcium percentage, minimum phosphorus percentage, minimums for copper, zinc and selenium in parts per million and minimum vitamin A in international units per pound (if added). Depending on your pet or horse’s age and activity level you may be selecting their food based on what these guaranteed levels are. Young, growing animals and animals in competition will have different requirements then senior animals or one in long term convalescences. Protein, fat and fiber sources are important to the quality of the food you are feeding. There are many different protein, fat and fiber sources (some good, some not so good) available for manufacturers to use when formulating a product and it’s nutrient analysis. However, ingredient digestibility or how it was processed can determine the quality of the product and how available the nutrients are to your animals. Your vet is a great resource in determining what food is appropriate for your animals and to provide you with feeding recommendations.
The first ingredients listed on the label will be the ingredients that make up the bulk of the commercial feed in the container. These ingredients are the major source of food or calories. Some manufacturers like to keep their ingredient descriptions as simple (or vague!) as possible. It allows them to have flexibility in sourcing certain ingredients, so they can switch sources depending on cost and availability, without reprinting their labels. They also do this to keep their formulations a secret from their competitors and the consumer. The ability to legally do this is an advantage to the manufacturer and a disadvantage to the consumer. If vague descriptors are used, it impossible for the consumer to know what food source is actually in the bag at hand. This also means that the ingredients are likely to vary in each batch produced. So, the bag you buy today may have different ingredients than the bag you bought last month. If you are trying to maintain your pet on a certain protein because of allergies, you cannot use a food that has one of these vague ingredients. Likewise, if you are trying to avoid a certain ingredient such as corn for your horse, you also cannot feed a food with one of these vague ingredients.
Let’s look at some examples of “vague” ingredients commonly used for pet food (dog/cat) and then for horses.
Pet Food Ingredients- All definitions described here come from the AAFCO website
This article explains how dogs developed hyperthyroidism from eating pet food containing esophagus without the thyroid tissue completely removed. Also, keep in mind that meat and animal by-products may provide plenty of protein, but much of it is not quality protein. When a manufacturer uses a particular meat or animal by-product it’s because it is the cheapest raw material they can source. The more desirable carcass parts are going somewhere else. It is more important to look at the ingredients in a food than the percent protein content because the ingredient will tell you more about the quality of the protein.
Horse Food Ingredients-
Many horse foods are left over parts of grain that has been processed for the human food market. Something has been removed and the by-product is what is left behind. Deciding if the by-product is a good choice as a food ingredient can be very complicated. It depends upon how the food was processed and the needs of the horse eating the by-product.
For example, soybean hulls are the skin of soybeans. They are mostly fiber and provide very little protein. Soybean meal is left behind after soy oil has been extracted from the bean. Soybean meal may or may not contain the hull. One thing to consider when looking at a by-product is how the food was processed to separate the different parts from each other. Was the soybean mechanically processed or was a chemical solvent used? If the soybean hull was mechanically removed, it could be a good source of fiber and be lower in phytoestrogens than the whole soybean. This would be a good choice for a hormonal mare that needs more fiber. If I were looking to the soybean as a source of protein and wasn’t worried about the high phytoestrogen (plant estrogens can affect the hormonal system of mammals) content, I would prefer to feed whole roasted soybeans or mechanically extruded whole soybeans (allows for pelleting). I would avoid soybean meal as hexane or other chemical solvents may have been used to extract the oil from the bean.
Another thing to consider is how was the plant being used grown. There are certain conventionally grown, genetically modified (GMO) crops that are sprayed with glycophosphates (Round-up) during growth and right before harvesting. These crops are soy, corn, canola, alfalfa, cotton, wheat and sorghum. I strongly recommend looking at the source of these ingredients for yourself and your animals. If you are able, buy only organic or non-GMO soy, corn, alfalfa, wheat and sorghum. I do not recommend oils such as canola oil, corn oil, soy oil or vegetable oil for horses unless it is cold, pressed and organic or non-GMO. Otherwise, the oil has been extracted using the solvent hexane. Low level hexane residue is toxic. Exposure to hexane can cause nerve weakness/dysfunction, muscle weakness, headache, dizziness, giddiness, and nausea.
Most processed equine food does contain by-products. Examples of commonly used by-products are beet pulp, soybean meal, soybean hulls, rice bran, coconut meal, pea protein, corn gluten. It would be better to choose one of these than something labeled “grain by-product”. Examples of whole foods would be soybeans, oats, peas, alfalfa meal (it is usually chopped and dehydrated without the removal of part of the food). Another commonly used by-product which is a mix of various grains is distillers grain by-product. Brewer’s grain is a by-product of barley.
Resources used to write this article:
(1)https://www.aafco.org/consumers/what-is-in-pet-food “The Association of American Feed Control Officials (AAFCO) is a voluntary membership association of local, state and federal agencies charged by law to regulate the sale and distribution of animal feeds and animal drug remedies.”
(2) https://www.fda.gov/AnimalVeterinary/ResourcesforYou/ucm047113.htm
(3) https://www.petmd.com/dog/nutrition/evr_pet_food_for_your_pets_sake
(4) http://web.mit.edu/demoscience/Monsanto/about.html
(5) https://openaccesspub.org/ject/article/622
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Another facet of this decision is the animal’s quality of life. Can their health issue be treated and is there a good prognosis for survival and healing? Is the animal deteriorating due to illness or age? Are they in pain or distress? Although animals by nature try to mask their discomfort, most will let their guard down in a familiar and comfortable environment. To determine their pain level you may have to provide them with a personal space away from other animals. Horses within a herd can be very stoic and are less likely to show their pain symptoms for fear of being picked on. Other animals will have similar reactions to pain or distress. They may show outward signs like lameness, fatigue and not eating or you may see a personality change from gregarious and friendly to isolatory and crabby. A daily diary on your animal can be a valuable tool in the decision making process. A chronicle of the animal’s daily quality of life, plus knowing what made them happy when they were healthy, can assist you in making that final decision. Your veterinarian can help you with some determinations such as a prognosis or symptoms of distress, but ultimately the decision will be up to you and your family.
Laws have changed recently concerning disposal of dead animals. It was brought about when euthanasia drugs were detected in pet food, causing illness and in some cases death. The practice of rendering livestock, such as horses, as a means of disposal now has limitations. You still have some options, but with the new requirements in place you will need to understand your options before proceeding.
Euthanasia can still be done if the body will be picked up or delivered by the owner for cremation. There are several levels of service, so costs can vary substantially. Two businesses in south central Wisconsin are:
Bodies that will be picked up for rendering need to be free of euthanasia drugs. Horses and other livestock can be put down with a gun or bolt discharged into the skull. Veterinarians are available to administer this form of euthanasia and understand the dynamics of putting an animal down this way. Rendering pick-up includes:
Another option for dealing with the animal’s body is to compost it. This is becoming more popular and there is information on the State of Wisconsin website to guide you on how to compost animal carcasses. You need to read the information thoroughly to make sure you have access to the right equipment and supplies for the task. You can find U-tube videos on the subject also.
Coping with your decision can be very stressful. Make your plans in advance if possible and talk to the people that will assist you with this process. You want every step scheduled and in place so that things go as smoothly as can be expected on that day. It is never easy and grief can come to us in many forms and stay for many days if not weeks and months. The sadness can overwhelm us, but there are resources to help us cope when we necessary.
There are other grief services listed on line. You need to find one that fits your needs and your schedule. As animal lovers and owners we are a big group of caring people who are there until the end for our animals. We are there for each other too.
]]>-The way it works is by killing osteoclasts which are the normal, healthy cells in the bone. Osteoclasts work in conjunction with osteoblasts and osteocytes to constantly remodel bone which is an important process for many reasons:
1) This is how the body repairs bone damage and regenerates aging bone. Osphos inhibits bone resorption and decreases bone turnover. This means the body is unable to undertake the normal process of removing and replacing bone which in is normally happening every minute of every day to keep bones strong. Without this happening as it is supposed to, the body is unable to repair microdamage within a bone. This is especially important in athletic horses.
2) Osteoclasts play a crucial role in calcium balance and metabolism in the body. Interfering with this mechanism is dangerous. Osteoblasts remove bone as a way of releasing calcium into the bloodstream when it is needed to maintain the proper balance of electrolytes in the blood, cells and extracellular spaces of the body. This is important in any living creature but especially so in an athlete.
3) 9% of horses receiving their first Osphos treatment will colic within 2 hours of treatment. This incidence goes up with each administration of the drug.
This drug was designed for people with osteoporosis but is not commonly used as most doctors believe it is not worth the risks. Here is the link to a fantastic article about Osphos (and Tildren, the other Bisphosphonate used in horses). It was written by Natalie Voss based on her interview with one of the most respected orthopedic veterinarians in the world, Dr. Larry Bramlage: https://www.paulickreport.com/horse-care-category/bramlage-price-pay-bisphosphonate-use-delayed-healing/
I don't feel it is in the horse's best interest to mess with normal homeostatic mechanisms as a treatment for everyday aches and pains.
]]>Strategic deworming (SD) allows us to minimize the risk of parasitic disease in individual horses while minimizing the amount of chemical deworming medication the horse is exposed to. It also controls parasite shedding into the horse’s environment and minimizes the risk of the parasites developing resistance to the deworming medications. SD involves using fecal exams to evaluate the parasite load of each horse. Each horse is dewormed based on his or her results. Based on SD, most of our horses will be dewormed only 1-2 times per year! The remaining horses will be dewormed either 2-3X per year.
How to collect a fecal sample for examination (FEC):
SPRING
SUMMER
FALL
WINTER
To summarize the above: All horses get a fecal check spring and fall. Summer and winter fecals need to be done on horses that had a FEC over 500 epg in the previous season. Dr. Weidenkopf will make individualized recommendations on which product to use and when to give it.
]]>Chinese herb formulation - Chinese herbs are rarely used individually as Western herbs often are. Most Chinese herbs are used combined into a standardized herbal formula. Formulas usually contain 2 -18 herbs.
Feeding Chinese herbs to horses - Herbs for horses are available in powder form and are top-dressed on the feed. They are also available in a flax base which increases palatability and adds fiber and omega-3 fatty acids.
Ordering Chinese herbs - Prescription herbs are chosen by Dr. Michelle at the time of a veterinary consultation for a specific horse.
An example of successful Chinese herb treatment was a patient named Cody who was diagnosed with Pemphigus foliaceus an auto-immune disease of the skin. Cody was diagnosed with this disease in his early teens. This means that his immune system began to react against his own skin causing large blisters which would itch and burn. Without Chinese medicine Cody would have needed continual use of steroids to manage his condition. Cody never needed steroids because his owner decided to try acupuncture and herbs first. Initially, Cody was treated with acupuncture four times. He was placed an a Chinese herb and managed for over ten years with a prescription herb. Diseases of the immune system tend to respond very well to acupuncture and Chinese herbs. This includes hyperimmune diseases/allergic conditions like heaves.
The purpose of joint supplements - Joint supplements are intended to prevent arthritis or prevent the progression of arthritis. They can be used when a horse has any condition leading to inflammation in a joint. Examples include: arthritic joints and joints that are stressed due to poor conformation, chronic lameness or injury. Joint supplements are also recommended for athletic animals that might be prone to arthritis due to heavy use of their joints.
Selecting a joint supplement - If you have already started shopping for a joint supplement you may be feeling overwhelmed. There are many different products on the market containing varying ingredients and dosages. Prices can also vary significantly. Supplements are not regulated by the FDA and less reputable companies often do not even meet the claims on their ingredient label. Use a source that you trust or chose a product that has a guaranteed analysis (by a 3rd party) of ingredients.
The most important ingredient in a joint supplement is glucosamine. This can be glucosamine sulfate or glucosamine HCL from a shellfish source. An effective dose is 6,000 to 10,000 mg/day. The 10,000 mg dose is needed for horses that are being worked. This higher level is also recommended as a loading dose for the first 2-4 weeks of treatment.
The second most important ingredient is chondroitin sulfate. An effective dose is between 1,250 and 5,000 mg/day. Recent research shows superior results when glucosamine and chondroitin are combined. Many products on the market contain both of these ingredients. You may find that a product contains both ingredients, but under the optimal dosages for either ingredient. I recommend choosing a product that supplies a full dose of glucosamine and as close to a correct dose of chondroitin as you can find.
Smartpak has a great comparison chart for joint supplements. There are many good products on the market. Two good products listed on this chart are Matrix 5+H/A by Med-Vet Pharmaceuticals and Absorbine Flex + Max.
For many years I have recognized the importance of stretching exercises for stiff horses to improve their range of motion. I have been teaching people to do “treat stretches” for this reason.
I recommend the book Activate Your Horse’s Core - Unmounted Exercises for Dynamic Mobility, Strength & Balance to learn the correct stretching methods. It comes with a DVD so you can watch the exercises being performed. One of my clients purchased this book because she had an older mare that was having difficulty getting up without help. The mare who did not have good core strength, developed a sway back. She started using the exercises not only for her mare but for her gelding too. The strengthening of this mare’s core enabled her to get up on her own and the client was able to have a couple more years of companionship. According to the client both of her horses really enjoyed the stretching and would start doing the exercises even before she offered the treats! For her horses using carrots worked the best, since they were long enough to keep her fingers out of the way.
The authors of this book are Norelle Stubbs an esteemed physical therapist and Dr. Clayton is a well-respected equine veterinarian (specializing in equine sports medicine and biomechanics). The book along with the instructional video will teach you how to use these exercises to not only improve range of motion but also to help strengthen the muscles of the neck, back, abdomen and pelvis. Think of it as core training for horses.
The book is laminated (stable hardy) with 30 color photographs and illustrations. The 95 minute long DVD is to be watched in step by step fashion. (Once you and your horse have learned one segment then view the next segment.)
Many clients have bought this book on my recommendation and it is available for purchase on our website www.holisticveterinaryoptions.com These exercises are great for building back and core strength in both the equine athlete and pasture pet. If your horse has back pain, an injury, a neurologic condition or is on stall rest, I can recommend which exercises would be appropriate for your horse.
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